1st 4 Chimneys

Chimney sweep & chimney repairs in Bournemouth, Poole, Christchurch & Dorset

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How chimneys work

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How to build a fire

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1st 4 Chimneys - How to build a fire

Chimney repairs in Bournemouth, Poole, Christchurch & Dorset

For wood stoves, the procedure is pretty much the same, except you need to know how to operate the stove once the fire is lit.

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Checklist

Things you need to build a fire:

  • seasoned firewood
  • small splits of firewood
  • kindling or fire starters
  • crumpled newspaper
  • matches

A good fire requires not only a functional appliance, but good fuel. For best results, use seasoned firewood - wood that has been stored covered for the better part of a year. Season your wood under cover, but with good air flow.

Unseasoned, or green wood has too high a moisture content, and doesn't burn well. Hard woods, like oak and maple, tend to be better than soft woods, like pine, since hardwoods have a higher BTU content, and will give a longer burn time and better performance.

A BTU is a "British Thermal Unit," the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit.

While lower-quality wood will often burn acceptably in an open fireplace, most wood stoves call for more care in fuel selection.

Believe it or not, super-dry wood - like that pile that's been out in the shed since you bought the place in 1972 - isn't very good fire wood, either. It might work okay in an open fireplace (assuming it isn't rotten), but it will burn fast and furious, and might throw a lot of sparks.

And all three - green wood, soft woods, and super-dry wood - create bigger problems when burned in wood stoves.

For the facts and figures buffs

The optimal moisture content for firewood is about 20% to 25%, while fresh-cut wood usually has a moisture content of 35% to 70%. The reason wet/green wood doesn't burn well is that water has a high specific heat. ("Specific heat" is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one gram of a substance one degree Celsius.) It takes a lot of heat to boil the water away, so there is less heat to keep the combustion process going.


Treated wood, Rubbish, & Other Things

You probably already know that you are not supposed to burn anything other than seasoned firewood. Burning treated wood, painted wood, rubbish, and such, releases toxic chemicals into the atmosphere (including your home!), and could cause other damage, as well.

Fireplaces and stoves aren't incinerators, and it is neither safe nor environmentally sound to use them as incinerators. So recycle your pizza boxes and plastic wrap. Stick with seasoned firewood for your hearth, and do yourself, your home, and our environment a favour.

Artificial Logs

If you don't want to deal with lugging and stacking firewood, or if you are out of wood and want to have a fire in your fireplace, you might try an artificial log. But be aware of the limitations. They are intended for use in open fireplaces, not in wood stoves; and they are designed to be used one at a time. If you have a factory- built fireplace, check the manufacturer's instructions and see if they recommend the use of artificial logs.

Firestarters

There are many types of firestarters firestarters you can buy for use in open fireplaces, including impregnated chunks of composition material, wax-and-wood- shavings blocks, and oil-soaked ceramic starters. These usually take the place of the newspaper and small kindling, but you will probably still need some small splits of wood.

Read the instructions on the package, and be especially careful if you use an oil- type starter. Never use charcoal lighter fluid, gasoline, or anything else that's not specifically designed as a firestarter for fireplaces. For wood stove users: check your owner's manual before you burn anything with chemicals in or on it.

Newspaper

Newspapers are great for starting fires, but they aren't a replacement for fire wood. Use enough to start the fire, and recycle the rest of the stack. And don't use the sections with color print, especially the color glossy sections, which contain chemicals that are unsafe to burn. Use the plain, black-and-white parts.

Setting the Fire

Put down a layer of crumpled newspapers, snug, but not crammed tightly together. You want space for air to get in, or you'll have a smoldering pile of papers and an unimpressive result. In a fireplace, put the paper under the grate.

Next, put down a couple of handfuls of small, dry kindling: twigs and very small branches are fine, or very small splits of wood. Criss-cross them in a few layers, to allow air circulation. Don't be stingy with the kindling. It is the key to a one-start fire.

Note: You can use fire starters in place of the paper and small kindling.

Then add a few larger splits, and top it off with a couple of small logs. That's it. Your fire is set and ready.

Wait! Don't strike that match yet!

Checklist

Don't Forget:

  • Is the damper open?
  • Do you need to prime the flue?

If you're not sure, read "Smoky Startups" for important advice.

Once you are sure you are ready, light 'er up. Wait a few minutes, until the larger splits and the small logs are well lit, and add another log on top.

Then sit back and enjoy.

Checklist

Tools and Equipment - Hearth Tools:

  • Spark screen
  • Poker/tongs
  • Hearth broom
  • Ash bucket and shovel
  • Woodburner's gloves
  • Wood carrier and rack
  • Fire extinguisher
  • Chimney fire extinguisher

Go to your hardware store and pick out a good set of tools. You'll be happy later on if you spend a little extra for a good set. Flimsy tools, and tools with handles that unscrew easily or fall off, will drive you crazy and take away from the relaxation and enjoyment of the fire.

If you are using a fireplace, a spark screen is a must. If you have young children, you need a safety screen around a wood stove, as well.

Woodburner's gloves will help you feed the fire, and avoid burning your hands. With good quality gloves, you can literally reach into the fire and move a log in emergencies.

To help in the task of lugging the wood from the wood pile to the living room, you will want a wood carrier. It is a wide fabric or leather sling with handles, that allows you to carry an armload without dropping logs or scattering wood chips everywhere. Some are designed like wide tote bags, for extra cleanliness. A sturdy wood rack by the hearth will keep your indoor wood supply safe and neat.

Don't forget to have a fire extinguisher nearby, just in case.


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Smoky Startups

The most common smoking troubles occur when the fire is first lit. If your fireplace smokes only during startup, but is okay after that, here are some possibilities:

- Fireplace Dampers
The purpose of the fireplace damper is to prevent heat loss when the fireplace is not being used. Don't forget to open it before you start a fire. But when the fire is completely out (usually sometime the following day), don't forget to close it. An open damper is like an open window, allowing huge amounts of heated air to escape.

When you are ready to light a fire, open the damper completely. Some people try to operate the fireplace with the damper closed partway, in an effort to get more heat into the room. But you won't gain much, if anything, by closing it part way, and you might gain a house full of smoke! No matter how you operate it, a standard open fireplace is not an efficient heater. Its purpose is atmosphere and entertainment. So forget about efficiency. Open that damper, and leave it open until the fire is out.

- Cold Flue
The flue will be cold when you first open the damper. This is especially true in fireplace chimneys built on the outside of the house, rather than up the middle of the house. A tall column of cold air in the flue will tend to sink, causing air to move down the chimney and into the house. So if you open the damper and feel cold air coming down the chimney, don't light the fire! If you do, smoke might be forced back into the house.

What you need is a tall column of warm air in the chimney. So first, prime the flue.

HOW TO PRIME THE FLUE
Roll up a piece of newspaper, light one end, and hold it way up in the damper opening. You might need to burn two rolls of paper. In a minute or so, you will feel the draft reverse, as the warm flue gasses start to move up the flue.

Once you have primed the flue, you can light the fire.

If you have a severe cold-chimney problem, and the newspaper trick doesn't seem to be working, try leaving the damper open for half an hour or so, allowing heated room air to gradually reverse the flow. Yeah, that's a lot of cold air coming down. But remember, this thing is for entertainment, not heat. Right? You can use the half hour to chill a nice bottle of champagne...

- Blockages
Sometimes a smoking problem is caused by a partial or complete blockage of the flue. Animal nests, leaves and debris, or internal collapse of chimney brickwork can cause blockages. If you think your chimney may be blocked, or if you haven't had it checked within the past year, make an appointment with us for a chimney check. We are qualified to identify and correct chimney blockages, and to check your chimney for other hazards as well.




 

Areas we cover

We offer chimney sweeping, chimney repairs & chimney maintenance in areas such as Bournemouth, Poole, Christchurch, Swanage, Purbeck, Wareham, Ferndown, Wimborne, Dorchester and throughout Dorset.
More information

Telephone

Office: 01202 247 943
Mobile: 07951 812 950

Email

1st4chimneys@live.com

Opening times

Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday

 

09.00 - 21.00
09.00 - 21.00
09.00 - 21.00
09.00 - 21.00
09.00 - 21.00
09.00 - 21.00
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Bookings are allocated in 1 hour time slots and appointments are made. Cleanliness and customer care are our Priority.

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